Mentawai experience: Siberut trekking Part III.

One of the younger kids of a 60-year old shaman we stayed at. Siberut trekking.

Healing the Shaman or how pigs follow you to the toilet

Siberut trekking.

Our last host on our Siberut trekking wasย a Shaman who was present at the ceremony, and his family. It was a shorter trek in the jungle and we had to cross the river, so not many people visit him. We wanted some peace anyway.
We came and we were greeted by 6 kids, Masin Dere is over 60 and has 10 children, 5 with his first, deceased wife and 5 with his second one. The youngest is around 1 year old but they’re not sure as they don’t know when their birthdays are.

Trekking trough the lush jungle. Read more about our Siberut trekking in the post.

In the jungle.

Hey! We’re still traveling ๐Ÿ™‚ Check out our Instagram profile @wejusttravel!

Wife came later with a basket full of durian. She greeted us warmly, showing her filed teeth. Sometimes women file their front teeth because it looks nice. She always had a cigarette of tobacco in her mouth and was different than other wives we met. She and her husband had long conversations we wished we understood and she was very caring with the kids. Youngest one was always on her boobies, nipples serving as pacifier.

Shaman's wife is preparing sago and frogs in bambo. Read more about our Siberut trekking.

Sago in bamboo and frogs in bamboo.


“He’s not coming.”

It was getting dark and we realized Levi’s not coming. Sheer luck that we bought some food, just in case. And that the Shaman was coughing and didn’t want to smoke too much. Sulai went to find Levi after breakfast and we were alone with the family. They were friendly and understanding, they showed us pictures sent by a tourist. They were so proud of them. Shaman showed us a letter that Mentawai speaking Australian wrote for him. It said guides lie and don’t pay much money to the families. At that point I really felt sorry for them. We come to their house, uninvited and they open their homes for us and share what they have. We gave as much as we could.

Older daughter is holding her baby sister, Mentawai kids. Read more about our Siberut trekking.

Youngest one and one of older daughters.


Sulai came back with few things and lot less money Levi told us he was going to pay. That little shit.
Meanwhile, we were doing what? Yes, nothing much ๐Ÿ™‚ So we decided to make a flute (this time, a real one :D). Quite unsuccessfully I must say. But it felt so good to be productive ๐Ÿ™‚

“Where’s the toilet?”
“There’s no toilet, they have pigs.”

Narrow plank to the ground. Add darkness and slippery mud and you're in an action movie. Read more about our Siberut trekking.

What a way to the toilet ๐Ÿ™‚


We had an interesting way of using the toilet. When I had to got o number two, Mic was guarding me with a stick so pigs didn’t come to close. And by close, I mean right to me, waiting. Yikes! I understood what Sulai meant when he said we don’t need a toilet because they have pigs. Ew.

Healing the Shaman.

Shaman, his wife with the youngest on her boobie and Mic. Read more about our Siberut trekking.

Happy family.


Our Shaman host had a very bad cough for two days and was spitting snot. Yucky. He had a sore throat and a fever. We knew it was bad when he didn’t even want to smoke. He even asked us if we have any medicine. At first I gave him some painkillers but before we left I gave him antibiotics. He has 6 young children! I was a bit surprised they are not scared of our medicine. He is a healer after all.

The mudder fudger.

We left the family some money and took off for the village. Levi was waiting for us there and didn’t say one thing about being away. But we were angry with him so we kept for ourselves. He paid us the ferry back and he avoided us all night, in the and he didn’t pay for the cab. I think he can’t play this game for a long time anyway.

All in all, we came back happy, despite problems with the guide. This was a once in a lifetime experience and probably one of the most memorable in our lives. Jungleeeee! ๐Ÿ˜‰

You can read the first two parts here and here. You can read more information on how to organize Siberut trekking here. And here is a detailed post about (weird) Mentawai food.

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